Flinders Ranges - Day 4

Day 4: Wednesday 29 August

We were awake before the alarm this morning. While I had woken a number of times during the night I certainly had had enough sleep.

After breakfast and lunch making it was on the bus again.

Today we headed for Bunyeroo Gorge, our drop off point for the walk. After turning off the main road we bumped along an unsealed track for almost 30kms. The track crossed numerous washouts (creeks) which Andrea eased the bus through.

At the start of the walk Wes talked about the geology. The track we followed took us between two ranges, initially the ABC, I think, to our right and another to our left. The track was relatively flat with ranges changing as we walked.

The group broke into two with Trevor and me, Paul and Terrie in the lead group and Wes and the bird watches (Barbara, Penny and Judi) in the second. Our group trundled on enjoying the warm, sunny day (I did strip off my singlet at the first stop), the scenery, birds and, later, occasional animals.

Red capped robin

We eventually found a stopping place for lunch and waited for the rest of the party to arrive. Our stopping place actually had a clear view of St Mary Peak. Wes appeared on his own. He had come ahead so that he could catch us up and provide us with a cup of tea. By this time the wind had come up and I put my singlet back on. The bird watches finally strolled up.

After lunch and a cuppa we headed off again. Wes had instructed us to stop and wait for him when we reached the gate across the track some 1km short of the Wilpena Visitors Centre (if only!)

Our first find of the afternoon was a shingle backed lizard. It was sitting on the track and moved off but only a short distance. We were just leaving as the trailing group arrived.

Along the track a variety of plants were in flower. One that caught my eye was the lobed-leaved hop bush (Dodonaea lobulata). See photo to the right.

Paul was hoping to see emus and red kangaroos. We did eventually see emus but no roos.

On arriving at the gate (which was actually open and not across the track at all) the directions were actually quite clear, contrary to what Wes had told us. We did do as requested and stopped at the gate and waited. Once Wes arrived he told us what to expect on the first part of the walk and suggested that the Wilpena visitors Centre was about a k away … it turned out to be 4km. We won't believe him in future!

A trip to the loo and a coffee was most welcome following the days exertions.

Andrea arrived with the bus and fruit for afternoon tea.

Once everyone arrived at the visitors centre we headed off to Sacred Valley along another unsealed track cut by many dry water courses. It was a slow drive but very worthwhile. The gorge was fantastic. There are a number of drawings on the walls (and some new additions by idiots!) that had been done by the traditional owners. The gorge showed the geology very clearly. I had taken Trevor's camera up the gorge and took a heap of photos.

Sacred Valley

Sacred Valley

Back at Willow Springs, after a refreshing shower, we sat around and chatted and shared a drink over a meal prepared by Andrea.

Flinders Ranges - Day 3

Day 3: Tuesday 28 August

My alarm went off at 6:15am. Another early start. The bed wasn't overly comfortable but that didn't seem to matter as I slept pretty well.

Wes and Andrea had breakfast set out for us: cereal, fruit, yoghurt, toast, tea and real coffee. After breakfast it was time to make our lunch wraps and gather other supplies for the day.

We were off by 8 o'clock heading for the Wilpena Visitors Centre where we started the days walk to St Mary Peak using the outside (the Pound) trail. The weather was fine and warm.

The first part of the walk was gentle, undulating and, in reality, fairly easy. Once we started to climb things were very different. The trail was rarely flat. Parts required scrambling and there was quite a bit of loose surface to contend with. I walked with a pole today – handy on some of the sections. The trail varied from very narrow to broad. At times it skirted the edge of the escarpment making walking that bit more challenging. Scrambling up rock faces and narrow gaps was the norm. Just as well the trail was well marked with frequent blue markers.

Wes and the back group arriving at the saddle

The group broke into two. The front, lead by Andrea, arrived at the saddle some time ahead of the rest, with Wes at the back.








Trevor arrived a little ahead of the back group. He had done very well.

By this time heavy gray cloud had rolled in but fortunately it didn't rain. The cup of tea we had at the saddle was very welcome.

Looking up towards the summit from the summit track

After stopping for a break, three of us (Paul, Terrie and me) headed for the summit guided by Andrea. The initial part of the trail headed down … and that meant that later we would need to gain the metres that we had lost. Bother! Once we started to traverse the peak we were challenged by some very difficult climbs. Fortunately the way was well signed with blue markers appearing along the track even if it would have been easier to see some of the markers if you were 6 feet tall rather than the shortness of most of us.

Andrea maintained a good pace for the three of us: not too fast and not too slow. Our rest breaks were most welcome. The view to the target (the summit), across the ranges and plains were wonderful.

Not far from the summit we came across two echidnas on the track. They went up the track and then off to the side. We were fortunate to be able to watch them for some time before they finally disappeared into the surrounding rocks and vegetation.

We had made it to the top!

On reaching the summit we abandoned our packs and clambered up on the rock face which sloped at 45º. The views were worth the climb … but the return??!

Lorraine standing on the summit of St Mary Peak with the ranges in the background

View from St Mary Peak summit

After eating our lunch we headed off down.

The climb had been peppered by individuals and groups and they kept coming as we made the difficult descent from the summit of St Mary Peak. The track was busy which made the descent even more challenging. I'm glad that I have built up my shoulder and arm strength as it helped to have the option of using arms to lower the bod on some of the difficult sections.

When we got to the saddle it was occupied by a large group of young ones who had strewn backpacks and bodies across the path making even more difficult than it should have been to navigate that bit of the track. Still, down we went. In some ways the down was more challenging/difficult than the up as we were very aware of what was (or wasn't) below us.

We made pretty good time and were pleased to be down on the reasonably level track for the final bit back to the Wilpena Visitors Centre. The early returners were waiting on the decking when I arrived back. First stop – toilet! Trevor got me a cappuccino while I was relieving myself. Most welcome.

All in all, the climb to St Mary Peak, at 1170m, was challenging and rewarding. It was an achievement that I would not have contemplated 18 months ago. I came through the climb and the return feeling pretty good. Hopefully I will feel OK in the morning.

Who summited with me? Andrea, Paul and Kerrie.

On the way back to Willow Springs Wes took us to the Stokes Hill lookout. There is a 3-D map of the area showing the many ranges and the Pound. No wonder we can see so many peaks every time we get any elevation. There are bands of ranges for as far as the eye can see.

Trevor and I were the last people up … and even we were in bed by 9:30. Everyone appeared to have been tired after today’s walk.

I pulled up feeling pretty good. There is the odd twinge in the left ankle but nothing of great concern and I have a sore spot below the left knee caused when I was scrambling up over rocks. I must remember to be careful kneeling for the next day or so.

Flinders Ranges - Day 2

Day 2: Monday 27 August

After getting up and organising our bags we ate breakfast and then made our lunch wraps.

We were on the road by 7:30am, heading for our walk drop. We diverted to have a look at the ruins of Kanyaka Homestead and outbuildings as well as its cemetery. It must have been impressive in its day. Today the shell of its walls is a testament to its previous glory.

Kanyaka Homestead ruins

 We had a brief stop in Hawker for fuel and a cigarette lighter then on to our drop off point, Black Gap, just off the Moralana Scenic Drive, in the middle of absolutely nowhere but a point on the Heysen Trail.

The initial part of the walk was along a creek bed and then we climbed up into the saddle of Bridle Gap on the rim of Wilpena Pound. The plan was to have lunch at Bridle Gap but we found our spot occupied by a group of students on a self initiative (or whatever they are called) hike. We found a nearby spot, enjoyed the views and our wraps followed by a fresh cup of tea … hence the cigarette lighter!

Continuing on after our lunch break brought us out onto the edge of Wilpena Pound. The hike up and then down had the odd challenging moments where we ended up scrambling up and down the path.

Views across Wilpena Pound from the lookout

 The walk across the Pound was very pleasant. There were numerous kangaroos, emus and other birds. At the Hills homestead we went up to the lookout. There turned out to be a lower and upper one. Andrea had never been to the upper but, as some of us were on our way up to it, she followed us … a first for her. The view across the Pound was wonderful and we had a sight of the Elder Ranges peeping over the rim of the Pound. It was definitely worth the climb to the upper lookout.

The group consistently broke into two. Paul, Trevor and I were consistently in the first group with Andrea. Later we were joined by Terrie. The breakaway group were permitted to walk ahead towards the Wilpena Visitors Centre along a broad track which took us alongside a creek. At points the creek was clogged with huge trees which had been washed down in floods. The geology was awesome, too.

After a coffee, loo trip and some fruit it was on the bus heading for Willow Springs Station, our home for the next three nights. Willow Springs is a 283 sq. km pastoral lease and we are staying in their shearers quarters.

On the drive to Willow Springs we stopped to look at a tree made famous by photographer Harold Cazneaux. The tree shows the tenacity of the tree to survive against all the odds.

Harold Cazneaux 1937 photograph of the tree titled ‘Spirit of Endurance’ won international acclaim. The tree is an important local landmark in the Flinders Ranges, photographed and painted by many visitors.

The tree

What an incredible array of wildlife we saw: an echidna (walking across the road), lots of roos and emus plus all the different birds. Glorious.

Wes and Andrea provided a delightful meal washed down with communal wine. 

Walking in the Flinders Ranges (2012)

Sunday 26 August  

My phone alarm woke us at 5:30am … the first of many early morning awakenings. After showering, dressing and organising our bags we headed out to the local McDonalds for breakfast. It was Sunday and most breakfast places definitely were not open until at least 7 o'clock which was too late for us.

The streets were busy with taxis and people who had been out all night … some the wrost for wear!

Our pickup was between 7 and 7:30 and we were duly met by our guide, Wes, who bounded into the foyer of the Stamford with a welcoming grin and then collected by the bus being driven by our other guide, Andrea. After a couple more stops to collect other groupies (there were 7 in our party) we headed out of Adelaide.

The first part of the drive passed through large greenhouse holdings, cropping areas (wheat and canola), olive groves and vineyards. The countryside was a brilliant green. There were numerous wind turbines lining the ridges.

We stopped about 100km out of Adelaide for a loo break and coffee and then on to Quorn, passing the Spencer and ? Gulfs. At Pichi Richi we were fortunate to see the steam train which was doing its Sunday run up from Pt Augusta.

While Wes and Andrea prepared lunch we strolled around the centre of Quorn. The town boast many old style buildings and has often been used as the backdrop for films such as Gallipoli.

The train line running through Quorn is part of the original Ghan line which was decommissioned around 1980. We were still in Quorn when the Pichi Richi steam train arrived.

Lunch was salad, breads, dips and cold meats followed by tea and coffee.

Back on the bus we headed out to Devils Peak.

The top of Devils Peak stands starkly out of the surrounding landscape and the notice board indicated that it was a challenging climb. We both made it to the summit. There were times when needed to scramble (using hands as well as feet) and the final ascent required us to edge up a crevice in the rocks. It was worth the effort. The views were outstanding and the geological formations stunning.

An example of the geological formations on Devils Peak

View from the summir of Devils Peak

 
I had carried the pack up leaving Trevor with just the camera. He actually did very well and was not the slowest in our party.

Sitting on the summit of Devils Peak. Left to right: Penny, Lorraine, Andrea, Judi, Barbara, Terrie, Wes and Paul

Trevor on the summit of Devils Peak

The descent from the summit started with getting down through the crevice which was the most challenging part of the return.

After descending Devils Peak we drove back through Quorn and on to Warren Gorge where we were able to see Yellow Footed Rock Wallabies. What gorgeous creatures they are. Trevor got some great photos and I'll add them once I am able to download them.

Yellow Footed Rock Wallaby with joey in pouch

We stayed at the Austral Hotel in Quorn.

After showering and changing we went to the bar and joined some of our party. We then moved to the dining room where Wes and Andrea laid on entree: grapes, cheese and crackers. They provided a briefing of the plans for Day 2 … leaving at 7:30 after breakfast and lunch making.

Final Preparations

It is Tuesday already and we are doing the final preparations for the trip to the Flinders Ranges. All our gear needs to be checked and some has already been discarded as it no longer fits (too big). Suitable replacement items have to be sourced and checked. Who was it whop said that life wasn't meant to be easy. Until Malcolm Fraser uttered those words we were all carefree. Now ... bother the man!

As we are leaving on the day of Anto's birthday we will be having a birthday breakfast and then Michael will drop us out to the airport. We have a night in Adelaide before being collected between 7 and 7:30am on Sunday morning. While we will do some walking on Sunday most of the day will be taken up with the drive out to the Flinders Ranges.

Lake circuits and running

Last updated: Tuesday 21 August

Back in March I had signed up for a 12 week fitness challenge. I continued my walking (which didn't count) alongside the challenge things. One of the options provided in the challenge was a Sunday walk/run around Lake Tuggeranong.

Week 2: I missed the first week and fronted up on the second Sunday (April 1st) and walked the circuit. My time was 54:50. Considering my walking speed it put the circuit at just short of the 6km mark.

Week 3: There was no official walk as it was Easter Sunday. I did walk down to the Lake and then around it before heading home. I did it at a leisurely pace and did not record a time.

Week 4: I went to the gym and did a leg sapping "challenge" followed by a speed, strength and endurance test and then the lake circuit. I included some running intervals on this circuit and finished it in 47:24 a whopping 7 minutes 26 seconds faster than I recorded 2 weeks earlier.

Week 5: I started the day with a walk home from Cooleman Court after breakfasting there. I went to the gym and did a Body Balance class, something I had not done in over 10 years and was somewhat of a challenge as bits of the body didn't always want to do what most of the rest of the class had their bodies doing. Then I did the lake circuit maintaining 90 seconds fast walking, 30 seconds "running" interval and completed the circuit in 43:27, just short of a 4 minutes improvement over the previous week.

Week 6: I did a workout at the gym before heading for the assembly point. This was another test week repeating the tests done in week 4 and managed to show an improvement for all of the areas tested. Then it was around the lake in a time of 43:12 - a further 15 seconds improvement.

Week 7: I almost didn't do the lake circuit as I had been down to Victoria for Phillip and Miranda's wedding however we did get back in time for me to do it. I managed to muck up my timing equipment so didn't get an accurate time however it appeared that I had come in under the 43 minute mark. More improvement.

Week 8: The week had been busy with the Swimming ACT presentation night on the Saturday evening. It was an exhausting week. Not only that, it was followed by a meet with lots of pool walking. I managed to do the lake circuit, after all the foregoing, in 41:03 ... an improvement of almost 2 minutes.

Week 9: Michael and I did a hike this morning. I then walked down to Tuggeranong and did the lake circuit in 40:14 a further improvement of 40 seconds. I was still doing walk-run intervals the there was more running than walking by this stage.

Week 10: I went to the gym to do the weekly challenge before doing the lake circuit. I had been really pleased with the improvement I had shown in my strength and endurance. Today I started the lake circuit with constant running and only dropped back to a walk-run interval after passing the Athlon Drive underpass. I did the circuit in a time of 39:46 a further improvement of 28 seconds.

Week 11: Back in week 7 I had injured by leg when I fell while dancing at the wedding. The injury had been very slow to heal and the leg still felt tired and had tender spots. I just needed to take care that I didn't over do it. I went to the gym to do a gentle workout before the run and Lana persuaded me to do a 30 minute CX Works class. It was not a good class to do before my final speed, strength and endurance test and a run around the lake! I ended up walking the lake circuit in a time of 53:59. There are limits!

Week 12: The final circuit undertaken as part of the challenge and I was delighted to complete it in a time of 39:07 a PB by 39 seconds.

Over the course of the challenge I had improved my time by 15 minutes 43 seconds. I really felt that I could continue to improve. It had been such a long time since I had done any running and I was surprised at how I managed to improve over the course of those 10 weeks through to June 10.

There was a bit of a break and then the gym organised to have Sunday lake circuits to be followed by coffee. A nice thoughts to have a bit of a social gathering afterwards. The first week saw a handful of people turn up with two of us opting to run rather than walk the circuit. Kara quickly got away from me and I thought that that was it. I was hoping to run all the way and I did. I managed to pass Kara and finished with a time just over the 39 minute mark. Running all the way meant that I was actually slower than when I was doing intervals. Probably this should not have been a surprise as the walk time was recovery and allowed me to run faster in the run bits.

The next week I ran non stop, too and had a time of 39:33. This was actually quite good as I had managed to injure left ankle and right knee in a fall and both were not working 100% but actually stood up to the circuit done at a slower pace than I was previously doing.

On the next 3 weeks Sundays I was tied up and missed the circuits. I did do some treadmill runs to check out the ankle and knee and was happy with their progress.

On Sunday August 12 I reported for the lake circuit and no one else turned up. Having psyched myself up to do the run I figured that I would do it anyway. I was delighted to finish my solo circuit in 38:54 - a small improvement but an improvement nevertheless.

By now the right knee was pretty much OK and the left ankle was mostly fine with just the odd twinge and generally not from anything I would do when running. So, on the following Tuesday evening I set out from home and ran down to meet the circuit path just through the Athlon Drive underpass and back without stopping. The distance is pretty close to 6kms or a little over. My time was 38:07. Fantastic!!!

On Thursday afternoon I set out to run to Tuggeranong. I did the first part, to the path through the Athlon Drive underpass in 18:02, 18 seconds faster than I did the same section on Tuesday. From the underpass to the end of my lake circuit took me 18:51 - 40 seconds faster than I had done the same section on Sunday afternoon. All up, from the school crossing in Barritt Street to the road near the Arts Centre took me 36:53.

I'll add updates to this post as I continue my running.

Will I be ready to do the 10km run in the Canberra Times Fun Run on Sunday September 9? I hope so. If I can run 6km three times in 5 days surely I will be able to manage 10km in a little over 3 weeks. This is not fast but finish!

Tuesday 21 August: Today I set out to do a 10km run. Speed was not the objective. Distance was. I set off at a very leisurely trot and got to my first timing point (near the Adventure Playground) in 13:14 quite a bit slower than my effort on Sunday and reached the lake path in 19:25 [Sunday was 16:43 ... yes, a whopping 1:19 off my previous time ... I gave myself permission to stop and walk home after that effort!] I completed my lake circuit in 40:33 which was terrific considering that I was doing a slow run and had covered 3km before commencing the circuit. The run back from the lake circuit to the Adventure Playground timing post took me a mere 5:56 ... I really wanted to finish the run and was also spurred on by setting my sights on a chap who had passed me way back near the Tuggeranong Library and commented that he had been following me for quite a time and had finally passed me. It might have taken me some 4kms but I did pass him after going through the Athlon Drive underpass. That really gave me a boost ... and a target. Once passed him I couldn't slow down and risk him passing me again! The games we play. Still, I was thrilled to have done the run in 1:05:54. I think the distance should have been reasonably close to 10kms. Now I know that I can do the 10km run it is just a matter of keeping doing runs over the next couple of weeks leading up to the Fun Run

Night Walks

Once I got into the habit of walking between home and Tuggeranong (generally to go to the gym) it only seemed natural to continue walking even when the days were getting shorter. Some of the staff at the gym were horrified that I was doing the walk "in the dark" yet I felt perfectly comfortable doing it. I did buy a headlamp and, at the suggestion of one of the gym staff, carried my whistle but that was all. The headlamp could cause problems like the night I almost dazzled, perhaps I actually did, a chap on a bike who actually rang his bell to warn me of his approach. I was so surprised that someone would actually ring their bell that I turned around and gave him the full benefit of my light in his face. Oops!

When Trevor started to do his walking he aimed at walking after each of his meals. This eventually meant that he was walking after dark. I lent him my headlamp to try it out. The first outing was not very successful as he didn't realise that you could set the angle to suit the wearer. After this was explained and demonstrated the headlamp has been taken over by Trevor. Whose headlamp? I think I need to go and get one for me, now!

When I walk at night I generally follow a well lit route with a fair amount of traffic. Supplementary lighting isn't really required for most of my night walks. Occasionally, like this evening, I will go out just on dusk for a lengthy walk and then tend to vary the route. While I do have a small torch it is not nearly as effective as the headlamp. The torch is fine when the route is familiar but absolutely useless if trying to determine anything much about an unfamiliar one.

There are surprisingly few people out on foot after dark. I guess that the temperature drop probably has a bit to do with it. People tend to stay indoors when it is cold unless forced to venture out. Funnily enough, it only takes a windproof jacket, a beanie and gloves to be able to walk comfortably on most nights and frosty mornings.

One of the great things about night walks is that the views are wonderful if you get to a high point. The lights down the valley are very pretty. When the sky is clear, as it so often is on a Canberra winter night, the night sky is spectacular.