Coast to Coast (C2C) walk England - the overview

Trevor and I will be tackling the Coast to Coast Walk next northern summer i.e.2013. We will be walking in a group with a guide. The company we have chosen is Northwestwalks.

Northwestwalks Coast to Coast guided tours follow Wainwrights famous 190 mile long-distance route across the North of England. From St Bees on the Irish Sea to Robin Hoods Bay on the North Sea the route leads through spectacular scenery and contrasting landscapes, crossing the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors National Parks.

There is a wealth of history along the route.

Initially the route follows the coastline around St Bees Head before turning east and entering the Lake District National Park. The Lake District is home to spectacular lake and mountain scenery. Although not high the mountains are rugged with steep footpaths. From Shap the Coast to Coast route levels to cross the undulating farmland between the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales, where the high ground returns but with less demanding ascents. At Richmond we leave the Dales and walk across the low lying Vale of Mowbray to Ingleby Cross and the beginning of the North York Moors. From here the trail leads on a roller coaster ride across the heather covered hills to the North Sea and Robin Hoods Bay.

The Coast to Coast is a lengthy challenging 'trek' and should not be under estimated, the valleys through the middle section, and the arable land in the eastern section make for straightforward walking, but the hills of the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors are rugged and gradients can be steep, so walkers must be physically fit, and equipped to meet it. The terrain on this trail is a diversity of rocky mountain paths, limestone plateau’s, country lanes, rolling hillsides and farmland.

The guided coast to coast holidays are group holidays with a guide. Each night on the trail we will stay in a different village along the route in selected accommodation, with full English breakfast provided. Our luggage will be transferred for us between overnight stops. We only need to carry a day pack: wet weather gear, extra layers in case it gets cold, lunch, drinks and whatever else we need for the day.

Start point: St Bees, Cumbria

End point: Robin Hoods Bay, North Yorkshire

Direction of walk: West to East

Grade: A challenging route walked at a steady pace and therefore a good level of fitness (stamina and cardiovascular) is required.

Group size: There will be a maximum of 12 people plus guide.

Terrain: The varies from rocky paths (especially in the National Parks), to farmland and country lanes. The National Parks provide the added challenges of some steep ascents and descents (perfect if you like walking in the mountains and hills). Ropes are not required. Footpaths can be hazardous (loose rock, wet, vegetation, scree, steep paths, vehicles, etc) so care and a sense of awareness is required.

Included in the price of the holiday are 14 nights accommodation with full English breakfast, experienced guide, luggage transfer and personal accommodation to accommodation transfer if required (so it is possible to bail out of a day and rest rather than walk).

Not included in the price: Evening meals, packed lunches, drinks and snacks, travel insurance, travel to St Bees and from Robin Hoods Bay, souvenirs, etc. Even so, the price is very reasonable compared to guided walks here in Australia.

Accommodation is provided in a variety of selected comfortable B&Bs, Guest Houses, small hotels and Inns. Types and standards of accommodation vary from village to village, and room sizes and facilities vary within accommodation. Many properties are hundreds of years old, and although many rooms have been converted to ensuite it has not been possible to do so in some properties or rooms due to space limitations or buildings having listed status (a property preservation order). Most rooms are ensuite but we expect to share a bathroom (i.e. have a non ensuite room) for one or two or nights of a full tour.

B&Bs in England are typically good value and country pubs are often full of character so some of the adventure of this trip will be the places we stay.

Guides: As well as leading the way the experienced Guide will provide daily information about the route its varied landscapes and local history. The guide will also provide information about the villages, places to eat, etc.

Meals: A full English breakfast is included in the cost and is served at the accommodation. Packed lunches (average cost £5) are available to buy from the accommodation or local shop, and evening meals (average cost £12) are generally available from local pubs.

Weather in Northern England is best described as changeable but there can be long dry warm spells. Walkers should be prepared for all possibilities as weather, particularly in the mountains, can change quickly. Weather statistics are available from the Met Office at http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/. If severe weather conditions prevail during the holiday the guide may have to change the route, delay or cancel a day’s walk.


Route description

Each stage (day) of the walk is set down in a separate post. These posts are intended to provide some further information about the route and points of interest. All distances, timings and heights are approximate and are provided as an aid to describe the route. The time to cover the distance includes time spent walking and time for breaks.

Day 1: St Bees
Arrive at St Bees. We will probably fly into Heathrow and then take the train from London to St Bees, a 5 hour trip. We will be staying at Stonehouse Farm which is about 100m from the railway station. We will be meeting our guide and fellow walkers at a welcome meeting in the guest lounge, Stonehouse Farm at 5pm.

Days 2 to 14 are walking days and each of these days is detail in the 13 stage posting.

Day 15: Robin Hoods Bay
Robin Hoods Bay is our walking destination which will will get to at the end of stage 13. It is a picturesque once fishing village and reputed smugglers haunt. Being built on the hillside the street from top to bottom of the village is the final steep descent/ascent on route.

And after the walk?
We will probably spend a few days just south of Robin Hoods Bay as I have a heap of ancestors from this area of the Yorkshire coast as well as the area a little inland from Scarborough.

C2C Stage 1: St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge

Well, this is our first day of walking on the Coast to Coast trail. With 22.5 kms ahead of us I hope that the weather is fine and that we manage this challenging first day without too many problems.

St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge (village height above sea level 100m)
Distance 14 miles/ 22.5km - Strenuous - Height Gain 685m/2250ft – 7.5 hours

Setting out from Stone House Farm in St Bees at 9:00am.
Arriving at Ennerdale Bridge at approximately 4:30pm

As far as most walkers are concerned, 'Mile Zero' on the path is at the Coast to Coast sign by the RNLI hut facing the Irish Sea. A plaque on the seafront marks the start of Wainwrights coast to coast walk. Tradition says to dip your toe in the sea and then collect a small pebble to carry with you to the east coast.


The day offers varied scenery. Initially our route heads north along the coastal path with views of Scotland and the Isle of Man. We leave the coastal path and head east towards the Lake District Mountains. The route passes through the villages of Sandwith, Moor Row and Cleator followed by a steep walk up Dent (352m), the high point of the day. Admire the views before continuing across the hilltop and descending steeply down a forest track to Nannycatch Beck. We follow the beck and then a roadside path to Ennerdale Bridge. Ennerdale Bridge is at the edge of the Lake District National Park.

Most walkers find this first day a bit of a struggle, particularly the haul up and over Dent Hill into Ennerdale Bridge.

Notable landmarks:

• The cleft of Fleswick Bay composed of a secluded pebbly beach surrounded by red sandstone cliffs with some unusually weathered boulders on the shore, if you can be bothered to make the short detour. The bay marks the dividing line between the constituent parts of St Bees Head: South Head and North Head.
• St Bees Lighthouse
• Sandwith - the first settlement of note on the trail almost 5 miles/8km along the path from St Bees.
• Moor Row is half way to Ennerdale Bridge and has a couple of places where food and drinks can be purchased.
• Cleator ... an ancient village with little to recommend it today
• The long and sweaty climb up Dent Hill takes about an hour from Cleator. At the top, provided the weather is clear, there should be views to the Lakeland fells ahead and the sea behind, with the gigantic plant of Sellafield to the south-west, Egremont before it and, on a good day, the silhouette of the Isle of Man and Galloway (Scotland) across the Solway Firth.
• The path descends Raven Crag hill which is quite steep and poles could be handy. It is good training and scenic.
• Ennerdale Bridge is the first of the self-consciously pretty Lakeland villages occupying a wonderful location spanning the River Ehen.

On route at Cleator are a small shop and the Three Tuns Pub.

Ennerdale Bridge has two village pubs serving evening meals and packed lunches.

C2C Stage 2: Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite

Day 3 is a 14 mile (22 1/2 km) section graded as strenuous. I hope taht we are up to tackling this walk after our first day on the trail.

Ennerdale Bridge (100m) to Rosthwaite (100m)
Distance 14 miles/22.5km - Strenuous - Height Gain 530m/1740ft - 8 hours

9:00am start from Ennerdale Bridge. We should arrive in Rosthwaite/Stonethwaite around 5pm.

We follow the country lanes to Ennerdale Water then the rocky path along the banks of the Lake. At the far end of the Lake we take the forest track that climbs gradually along Ennerdale valley, walking alongside the River Liza, to the remote Black Sail Hut YHA (290m). The hostel is left open during the day which provides shelter from the weather and a chance to make a cup of tea in the kitchen.

From the YHA we continue to the bottom of Loft Beck and a steep ascent to the high point of the day at 600m. The views back to the sea are spectacular. We follow the rocky path across the fell and descend to Honister (330m). Continue descending into the beautiful Borrowdale valley to the village of Seatoller (120m) then follow the footpaths to Rosthwaite.

Well, this should be an interesting day. The chances of fine weather are not good as we will be heading for the spot that records the highest rainfall in England (Sprinkling Tarn, just south of Seathwaite, receives 185 inches .... yes, inches ... (4.7metres) of rain a year! Now, that is why we carry wet weather gear. It isn't just to add weight to our packs, after all. There may be a real purpose! Afternoon rain is very common even when mornings are clear.

Seatoller is a National Trust village which is just a short distance before our destination for the day: Rosthwaite.

At Honister there is a slate mine and shop (serving tea and coffee).

Rosthwaite has a pub serving evening meals and a small shop where you can buy packed lunches. Nearby Stonethwaite has a pub serving evening meals.

Note: We will stop at the 28 mile mark today.

C2C Stage 3: Rosthwaite to Grasmere

Day 4 and a strenuous day although the distance is a mere 10 miles (16km) and the height gain is moderate, too.

Rosthwaite (100m) to Grasmere (75m)
Distance 10 miles/16km – Strenuous - Height Gain 530m/1740ft - 6 hours

Starting at the 28 mile mark:  

and finishing at the 38 mile mark:

Start at 9:00am from Rosthwaite. We should arrive in Grasmere around 3pm.

We take the track alongside Stonethwaite Beck then a rocky path climbing steadily alongside Greenup Gill. We walk steeply up the steps and rocks (a bit tricky but not technical) to the left side of Lining Crag (500m) and admire the views to the north and east. Continue to Greenup Edge, today’s high point at 620m, and then descend the rocky path to the head of Far Easedale. The guide then considers several factors and decides to either follow the ridge walk across Calf Crag, Gibson Knott and Helm Crag before descending steeply into Grasmere or take the less arduous route down Far Easedale.

Strenuous ... doesn't sound good after the last two days.

In good weather this part of the walk is a Lakeland classic.  Let's hope that the weather is fine.

The first bit is a straightforward climb up past Lining Crag to Greenup Edge.The path tracks besides Stonethwaite Beck which is a continuous torrent of white water with occasional waterfalls after rain.

At the top of Lining Crag, weather permitting, it is possible to see Scafell Pike, England's highest summit at 978m.

William Wordsworth called the valley in which Grasmere sits "the fairest place on earth". Heady words. It will be interesting to see why he thought so highly of this valley. Grasmere is the home to Dove Cottage where Wordsworth lived for about 10 years. It is open to the public daily from 9:30am to 5pm.

There are many little shops, cafes and a few pubs serving evening meals in Grasmere.

C2C Stage 4: Grasmere to Glenridding

Day 5 is supposedly another strenuous day even though it is only an 8 mile stage. Time will tell.

Grasmere (75m) to Glenridding (150m).
Distance 8 miles/13km - Strenuous - Height Gain 505m/1655ft - 5 hours

A late start - 11:30am from Grasmere (stating at the 38 mile mark) with an expected arrival in Glenridding (around the 46 mile mark) of 4:30pm.

This short stage is a great hike with views back to Grasmere and, once over the pass, down across Grisedale to Patterdale, another gorgeous valley with the lake of Ullswater twinkling away to the north. 

We follow the lane to Mill Bridge then take the rocky path which climbs steadily alongside Tongue Gill to Grisedale Tarn (550m). From Grisedale Tarn we follow the route down hill alongside Grisedale Beck to Patterdale valley and the village of Glenridding on the shores of Ullswater.

Note: Close to the outlet of Grisedale Tarn is the ‘Brothers Parting Stone’. This is the point that William Wordsworth last met his brother John who later died when his ship sank at sea.

There are two other routes from Grisedale Tarn to the Patterdale valley ... both considerably more challenging than the one we will be taking.

There are a few pubs for meals and village shops in Glenridding.

C2C Stage 5: Glenridding to Shap

 Day 6 and a little shorter, just, than some of the other days!

Glenridding (150m) to Shap (250m)
Distance 17 miles/27km - Height Gain 760m/2500ft - 9 hours

An early start today with an 8:30am departure from Glenridding. We expect to arrive in Slap aroun5:30pm.

See the previous stage for the first bit of the terrain profile. We will be starting just before mile 46 and finish at mile 61ish.

This stage sees us leave the Lacke District however the crags, knotts, pikes and fells that have been our high-level companions for the past few stages won't let us go without a struggle. Be prepared to be very tired indeed at the end of this stage. The long climb up to Kidsty Pike, the gnarly descent from it to Haweswater and the undulating trawl along the lake's edge adds up to well over 1300 metres of total ascent. Together it all conspires to make the seemingly harmless spin down over fields and farmland to Shap enough to curse the very name of Wainwright.

So, here goes.

A short valley walk then a sharp steep walk up to Boredale Hause (400m), the rocky path now climbs with less gradient past Angle Tarn and close to Satura Crag (600m), it descends to 500m and then climbs sharply again to round The Knott (739m). The route then turns sharp left onto High Street, an old Roman Road, and then right onto Kidsty Pike (780m) the highest point on route. From here look back across the Lake District and then turn to view the Eden Valley and the Pennine Mountains. We descend gradually at first then steeply down to Haweswater (250m), and follow the rocky path alongside the banks of the reservoir to Burnbanks. The terrain eases as the route crosses undulating farmland to Shap.
Notes:

• The Romans built High Street to link the Roman forts at Ambleside and Penrith.
• Haweswater reservoir was created by Manchester Corporation when they dammed and flooded the valley in 1935.
• The ruins of Shap Abbey stand by the banks of the River Lowther. 

There are several pubs serving evening meals and a few village shops.

C2C Stage 6: Shap to Kirkby Stephen

Day 7. This stage is another long one ... although not designated "strenuous"

Shap (250m) to Kirkby Stephen (180m)
Distance 20 miles/32km - Long moderate - Height Gain 150m/490ft - 8.5 hours

Those who struggled over the previous stage may be less than delighted to learn that this stage is another long one. While long there is a plus ... no prolonged gradients to contend with so can be viewed as a "recovery day".

Another early start. We will be leaving Shap at 8:30am and should arrive in Kirkby Stephen around 5pm.

Setting out from mile 61ish our destination is mile 80.

This stage has a number of prehistoric sites although it would be easy to pass them by without recognising them.

The Lake District Mountains are left behind and the gradients ease to cross the rolling farmland and hills in Eden Valley. We follow the footpaths across the limestone plateau passing the secluded walled village of Oddendale with two concentric stone circles only a few minutes off the track and the granite boulders deposited by ice age glaciers. Orton lies a mile to the south of the route. There is a second, more impressive, stone circle a mile to the east of Orton on the Coast to Coast path.

We continue over rolling farmland and across the moors passing Sunbiggin, the hidden remains of several ancient settlements, and Smardale Bridge to the market town Kirkby Stephen.

There are banks, shops, pubs and cafes in Kirkby Stephen.