Coast to Coast day 2: Ennerdale Bridge to Stonethwaite

The alarm went off at 6:30am. Bother. Did we really need to get up?

A quick look outside showed that the weather was not brilliant. The sky was overcast and the surrounding peaks were shrouded in low cloud. So much for the expected views.

After a good breakfast we headed off for the long hike to the Barrowdale Valley. We were to stay at a B&B in Stonethwaite, one of the small settlements in the valley.

Getting ready to leave the Shepherd's Arms

We began with a walk along the southern side of Ennerdale Waters. The walk was fairly flat with pleasant views across the lake. There were quite a few streams to be crossed and some parts of the trail took us well up above the water with some precarious tracks right on the edge of cliffs.

Trevor admiring the scenery

 

 

Trevor on the track around Ennerdale Waters

There was quite an array of plants around the lake. I was particularly taken by the heath. There were two differing shades in flower and sometimes the plants intermingled.

There were some lovely vistas across the lake:

We stopped for a morning break in a sheltered spot. I didn't carry a thermos of hot water as we were expecting to be at Black Sails YHA later in the morning and we expected to get a cup of tea there. It meant that our morning break was tealess.

Aound the edge of the lake there were numerous streams running down from the surround heights. Channels had been employed to direct the water and reduce erosion and help to keep the water in Ennerdale Water as clean as possible as it is used as the water supply for teh surrounding area.

One of the stone channels directing water into Ennerdale Water

On reaching the end of the lake we headed over a field to a bridge over the River Lisa.  The bed of the river was strewn with pink and blue rocks. It actually looked quite pretty.

Now for the first surprise of the day. We were tyo walk along the north side of the River Lisa only to discover that the track was closed due to forestry activity. After a bit of backtracking we followed the track along the south side of the river.

The weather remained overcast and the tops of the peaks persistantly remain shrouded in mist.

As we trudged along the track, it was actually quite pretty as it was through an area of forrest, I kept seeing some very large black slugs. they were huge. most would have been around 7cm long and a glossy black.

We finally crossed the River lisa and went on to Black Sail YHA in full expectation of toilet facilities and a cup of tea. Bother. The hostel was in the process of being renovated and was fenced off with workmen beavering away inside the fence and our party excluded.

No tea or toilets for us at Black Sail YHA

We found a sheltered spot a short distance away from Black Sail to have lunch before tackling the climb of the day. This was a very stiff climb up along Loft Beck up the step commonly known as "the steps of Hell".

The top was enveloped in mist with no views to speak of.

before we dropped down to the slate mining settlement of Honister where we were finally able to get a cup of tea followed by an icecream. On the track into Honister we observed a number of mines some of which are still operational although most are now closed. The scars of the mining activity are clear to see across the valleys.

From Honister I was expecting a short walk to our overnight stop. Hah! We walked on and on. I can tell you that I was pleased to finally come into sight of Stonethwaite only to have a further 1/2 mile or so to reach our B&B.

Unfortuantely for us, the pub almost opposite our B&B does not do food on a Monday so we had a very long walk to the nearest food outlet: Scarfell Hotel and Riverside Bar. At least the food was good. The walk back in the dark along the narrow road was a challenge however we had gone suitable equiped with torches. We were accompanied by the call of the sheep in the fields long the road and I am sure taht the locals were unimpressed that their livestock had been disturbed.

Aall up we did 22.62km plus our trip to the pub for dinner! The Elevation gain was 691m.